How to Install Metal Wall Panels – Metal Cladding for Homes

Looking around at the different houses on the street and not finding a unique, modern look that satisfies your desire for articulated lines yet is minimalist enough to not be in everyone’s eyes? Perhaps you are looking for Aluminum or Steel Standing Seam Siding. In this article, we will show how such a system is installed, as well as explain its properties and a bit of history.

Need a Roofer? Get 4 Free Quotes From Local Pros:

Enter Your Zip Code:

As you may know, aluminum siding has been very popular about 60 years ago; however, with changing tides in the global commodity market and innovative use of cheaper PVC (vinyl) siding, the use of aluminum and steel as a siding material has declined. Nevertheless, it has reemerged as an element of modern and contemporary design.

Modern metal wall panels such as corrugated metal, standing seam, and metal shingle cladding, provide a unique alternative to the standard options — when desiring something more than the same old vinyl siding or cedar shingles look for the exterior walls of your house. Read to learn more about how to go about installing metal wall panels and what to expect.

Standing Seam Siding — Project Details:

Length between the seams – should be adjusted so that most penetrations would fall between the seams.
Height of the seam – purely aesthetic but should be at least 1” tall.
Wall anchoring – two options nail strip or clips (longer use clips short use nail strip).
Lock type – snap lock or lock in from side, contractor preference.

Paint Finish – KYNAR 500® PVDF or HYLAR 5000® PVDF high quality raisin paint.

Gage – Thickness standard for aluminum siding and roofing is 0.032 to 0.040.

Project: Siding on the back portion of a town house with adjacent units on both sides.

Location: Boston, MA

Substrate: wood siding on top of boards.

Color: Silversmith and mate black window trim.

Type of panel: Nail-strip snap-lock.

Initial Inspection and material order preparation

First thing one should do when installing metal siding is to see if the deck, in our case wood planks, would hold the screws. Make sure that there is no rot or cracked boards (we were lucky as some of the siding was already removed).

Second measure every distance from sides to protruding objects such as windows, pipes, and outlets – try to record how big a penetration would be – to properly select the width of the panels. This step is crucial to having a clean look, flashing around objects is hard enough flashing with a seam in the middle is twice as hard.

Once all the above is done, I used Sketchup by Google, draw a diagram, and come up with a width that will make the least number of cuts necessary to go around windows and penetrations. After the diagram is adjusted for accuracy, the order is sent to the manufacturer.

removing old siding

Removing old siding, fixing deck, and installing underlayment

The main problem here is not to damage the adjacent buildings and the newly installed door. As this was wood siding and the work area was very small, we used crow bars which both less destructive and tests the strength of the boards underneath. As expected, some of the boards were rotten and on top of that the blown in insulation fell out once we removed the rotten boards.

After a quick run to Home Depot, we got some 3/4” plywood and pink insulation, and fixed the troubled areas. When installing standing seam for either roofing or siding applications, the deck should be as straight as possible and should not have any nails sticking out — if they are, sooner or later the aluminum will take the form of anything that’s underneath it.

New Shingle Roof

$7,500
Average price
New Metal Roof

$14,500
Average price
New Flat Roof

$8,225
Average price

See costs in your area Enter Your Zip Code

As with traditional siding choice the wood deck should be covered in underlayment/vapor barrier. Our choice is the synthetic breathable underlayment by GAF called Deck Armor. — It allows moisture to escape but doesn’t allow any water from the outside to penetrate.

Thus, it can help remove (vent out) any excess moisture coming from inside the house, while preserving the wood, insulation, and walls for many years to come. Underlay also acts as a second water barrier. — This treatment makes the side walls watertight.

Underlayment should be installed starting from the bottom, all the way to the top. It can be left exposed for months if the project were to be delayed or interrupted for whatever reason.

Flashing around windows and sides

flashing-windows-walls


Read more

How to Repair a Leaky Asphalt Shingle Roof – DIY Guide

In this guide, you’ll learn the basics of asphalt shingle roof repair:

  • Finding the leak
  • Repairing damaged shingles when possible
  • Removing and replacing damaged asphalt shingles
  • When it makes sense to replace the entire roof or section
  • The cost of asphalt shingle replacement

Have you had that “uh oh” moment when you look up at the ceiling and are hit with the tell-tale signs of a leaky roof? The drywall is wet, maybe stained too. Or water is making its way through a light fixture, and drip, drip, dripping onto whatever lies beneath. That’s definitely a problem, but we’ve got the solutions right here.

Visually inspecting your roof from the ground using binoculars is something you should do after every high-wind event, and that’s often all it takes to discover the mauled or missing shingles, hopefully before a leak develops.

via A Step in Time Roofing

New Shingle Roof

$7,500
Average price
New Metal Roof

$14,500
Average price
New Flat Roof

$8,225
Average price

See costs in your area Enter Your Zip Code

Either way, your roof is the home’s most important defense against the elements, and leaks must be stopped immediately. If they’re allowed to continue, extensive water damage, rotting wood and mold that is difficult and costly to remove will result.

Read more

Rain Chains Cost, Materials, DIY Options & Styles in 2021

Rain chains demonstrate a beautiful blend of decorative form and useful function. Instead of water traveling from your roof through a closed downspout, rain chains allow you to enjoy rainwater’s pleasing sound and aesthetics, like a babbling brook cascading downward.

Rain Chains DIY Installation
via Hallmark Channel

In Japan, where rain chains had their origin, they are a common element of traditional building design. Gutters are viewed as too utilitarian to use when the function can be handled by something that also enhances the beauty of the structure. — That view is spreading, and the popularity of rain chains is growing in North America and around the world.

This buying guide provides a comprehensive overview of rain chain styles, materials, options, installation methods, costs, and DIY options.

The Basics

If you’re unfamiliar with rain chains, or kusari doi in Japanese, lets discuss their anatomy.

  • An adapter or bracket is attached to the gutter in place of a downspout
  • The rain chain hangs from it
  • The chain is anchored by a basin, stake, or weight

These three essential components might be sold separately, but many top manufacturers produce kits with everything included.

Cost

There is a wide range of rain chain prices, but they can be loosely grouped into these four categories that have some overlap:

  • $25-$55 | Cheap rain chains, fine chains, small design elements spaced widely, most often painted or coated steel or aluminum.
  • $55-$120 | Good-quality rain chains, larger and more design elements, most often copper, but some are brass, aluminum or stainless steel.
  • $120-$250 | High-quality rain chains, large, complex design elements, most often copper or stainless steel, a bottom bowl might be included.
  • $250-$700 | Best-quality rain chains, quite ornate, copper, zinc, and stainless-steel designs, often with a basin and stake included. The very finest rain chains are imported from Japan and cost in the upper end of this range.

How Much Do Accessories Cost?

The accessory options are weights, basins, and stakes:

  • Rain chain stakes: $15-$25
  • Rain chain weights: $25-$75
  • Rain chain basins: $50-$200 depending on the size, material and whether they’ve been handcrafted

Most Popular Styles

  • Chain links are interspersed with artistically designed cups or other features such as birds, leaves or flowers at intervals of a few inches to as much as a foot apart.
  • Most rain chain cups have holes in the bottom to allow water to pass through. Other chains are produced with shallow cups, and the rainwater fills the cup and spills over into the cup below.
  • Single links or another type of connector are used to hold each cup to the one above it, so that the rain chain is really a series of cups with little or no chainwork.
  • The rain chain is a series of decoratively fashioned links or loops, often of varying size and artfully interwoven, with no cups at all.

Because of the artistic nature of rain chain design, these three basic styles are produced in nearly limitless variations and combinations.

Traditionally, rain chains were crafted from metal, and most still are.

Most Popular Materials:

  • Copper: This is the traditional material choice of rain chain artisans. The copper must be polished regularly if you wish it to maintain its gleam. Most copper rain chains are allowed to develop an appealing patina finish that changes as the copper ages.
  • Steel: This is another traditional metal. Make sure any steel rain chain you consider is coated or painted to prevent rust, though corrosion is probably inevitable.
  • Stainless steel: This corrosion-resistant metal is often used by itself or in a rain chain design with copper.
  • Aluminum: More affordable than stainless, aluminum is durable and will develop a light patina too.
  • Brass: This material is a staple of plumbing fixtures because it resists corrosion. It’s an attractive choice for rain chains too.

Read more