How to Install Metal Wall Panels – Metal Cladding for Homes

Looking around at the different houses on the street and not finding a unique, modern look that satisfies your desire for articulated lines yet is minimalist enough to not be in everyone’s eyes? Perhaps you are looking for Aluminum or Steel Standing Seam Siding. In this article, we will show how such a system is installed, as well as explain its properties and a bit of history.

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As you may know, aluminum siding has been very popular about 60 years ago; however, with changing tides in the global commodity market and innovative use of cheaper PVC (vinyl) siding, the use of aluminum and steel as a siding material has declined. Nevertheless, it has reemerged as an element of modern and contemporary design.

Modern metal wall panels such as corrugated metal, standing seam, and metal shingle cladding, provide a unique alternative to the standard options — when desiring something more than the same old vinyl siding or cedar shingles look for the exterior walls of your house. Read to learn more about how to go about installing metal wall panels and what to expect.

Standing Seam Siding — Project Details:

Length between the seams – should be adjusted so that most penetrations would fall between the seams.
Height of the seam – purely aesthetic but should be at least 1” tall.
Wall anchoring – two options nail strip or clips (longer use clips short use nail strip).
Lock type – snap lock or lock in from side, contractor preference.

Paint Finish – KYNAR 500® PVDF or HYLAR 5000® PVDF high quality raisin paint.

Gage – Thickness standard for aluminum siding and roofing is 0.032 to 0.040.

Project: Siding on the back portion of a town house with adjacent units on both sides.

Location: Boston, MA

Substrate: wood siding on top of boards.

Color: Silversmith and mate black window trim.

Type of panel: Nail-strip snap-lock.

Initial Inspection and material order preparation

First thing one should do when installing metal siding is to see if the deck, in our case wood planks, would hold the screws. Make sure that there is no rot or cracked boards (we were lucky as some of the siding was already removed).

Second measure every distance from sides to protruding objects such as windows, pipes, and outlets – try to record how big a penetration would be – to properly select the width of the panels. This step is crucial to having a clean look, flashing around objects is hard enough flashing with a seam in the middle is twice as hard.

Once all the above is done, I used Sketchup by Google, draw a diagram, and come up with a width that will make the least number of cuts necessary to go around windows and penetrations. After the diagram is adjusted for accuracy, the order is sent to the manufacturer.

removing old siding

Removing old siding, fixing deck, and installing underlayment

The main problem here is not to damage the adjacent buildings and the newly installed door. As this was wood siding and the work area was very small, we used crow bars which both less destructive and tests the strength of the boards underneath. As expected, some of the boards were rotten and on top of that the blown in insulation fell out once we removed the rotten boards.

After a quick run to Home Depot, we got some 3/4” plywood and pink insulation, and fixed the troubled areas. When installing standing seam for either roofing or siding applications, the deck should be as straight as possible and should not have any nails sticking out — if they are, sooner or later the aluminum will take the form of anything that’s underneath it.

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As with traditional siding choice the wood deck should be covered in underlayment/vapor barrier. Our choice is the synthetic breathable underlayment by GAF called Deck Armor. — It allows moisture to escape but doesn’t allow any water from the outside to penetrate.

Thus, it can help remove (vent out) any excess moisture coming from inside the house, while preserving the wood, insulation, and walls for many years to come. Underlay also acts as a second water barrier. — This treatment makes the side walls watertight.

Underlayment should be installed starting from the bottom, all the way to the top. It can be left exposed for months if the project were to be delayed or interrupted for whatever reason.

Flashing around windows and sides

flashing-windows-walls


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Standing Seam Metal Roofing Installation – DIY Step by Step Guide!

Installing a standing seam metal roof is not as easy as it may seem at first. “Yeah”, you might think: “What is there to do? Just put up those panels!”.

standing-seam-panel-installation-finishing-touches

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Not so quick, now! Standing seam installation process can actually involve a lot of tedious work, so let’s cover it in a step-by-step fashion to see some of the challenges it may entail. Shall we?

| 1. Basic Prep Work Required |
| 2. Necessary Tools, Materials, and Supplies |
| 3. Installation Process |

1. Basic Preparation for the Job

The most important thing about installing standing seam, is to measure the roof correctly and precisely. Here is why; Each standing seam panel is cut to the exact size, and if your panels are too short, you will run the following costly issues:

A) If a panel is only 2″ short, you may not be able to use your ridge cap as it will not cover the ends of the panels. In this case you will have to get or make a wider cap. In this case it will go from 12 to 16″ wide cap (remember – panels are 2” off on each side, so we add 4″ to the ridge cap)

B) If panels are short by 4-6″ you may not be able to get a cap that wide, so now you have only two options: Ether panels are useless, or you splice them. Splicing 6-inch metal panels, while sitting at the ridge of your roof is about as much fun as head-butting the curb! 😉 You would probably want to get at least 2-3 feet long panels for splicing. You will also need at least a foot of overlap on each panel.

In either case you will run into additional work and will likely have to spend a lot more money compared to what should have (and could have) been originally spent.

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$14,500
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Estimating Roof Pitch & Determining Suitable Roof Types – DIY Guide

So, it’s time for a new roof, or perhaps you are planning a new home construction project and are considering what your new roof should look like. Surely, you have heard about all the exciting new roofing materials available today and are eager to get started.

roof pitch expressed in degrees

However, before you can make the call on what to put on the roof, you need to know the pitch or slope of the roof! 😉

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Why It’s Important

The roof pitch is necessary for two things – one, estimating the amount of material to be ordered for the job and two, knowing what materials are suited for the roof. But, again we are jumping ahead of ourselves. Before we get started with all that we need to find out the pitch of a roof.

What is a roof pitch?

roof-slopes

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Pitch, angle, incline, slope – they all can be used to refer to the steepness of a roof. In the roofing trade the go-to term is “pitch”, and it is expressed in terms of “12 inches.” So, the pitch of a roof is determined by how many inches the slope rises for every 12 inches it runs horizontally.

If a roof increases in height by four inches for every foot of horizontal run, it is considered to have a “4-in-12 pitch” or just a “4 pitch.” Talk in terms of pitches and you will always be understood in the roofing universe. 😉

Measuring a roof pitch

Ideally you will have safe access to your roof from inside the building. If not, you will need to make your measurement from on top of the roof itself or at the edge of the roof with a ladder.

The tools required will be a contractor’s level at least 24 inches long and a tape measure.

Place the butt end of the level against the edge of the roof and extend it into the air, balancing it until it becomes level. At that point measure down from the exposed butt end back to the roof surface.

Divide the results by the number of 12-inch segments in your level. For example, if you used a 24-inch level and your measurement was 12 inches the pitch in your roof is 6-in-12.

You can also estimate a roof pitch by eyeballing it from the ground from the gable side with a level and ruler.

If for some reason you have absolutely no access to basic tools you can guesstimate the pitch of a roof by knowing that clapboards generally present four inches of exposed face and a dollar bill is six inches.

So you can count the clapboards from the low end of the roof to the peak and use a dollar bill to figure out your stride and pace off the size of the building. Then make your mathematical calculations.

Using roof pitch to order materials

Once you know the width and length of the space to be covered you can apply the roof pitch to determine exactly how much roofing material to order without leaving yourself short or wasting money with overages. To do that requires basic geometry but fret not, you can just refer to tables that are standard in the industry:

Multipliers used for estimating roof area based on slope:

0 pitch – 1.00X the roof area. Since this is a flat roof or nearly flat roof. You can go by the measurements taken by walking the roof.

1 pitch – 1.01
2 pitch – 1.02
3 pitch – 1.03
4 pitch – 1.05
5 pitch – 1.085
6 pitch – 1.12
7 pitch – 1.16
8 pitch – 1.21
9 pitch – 1.25
10 pitch – 1.31
11 pitch – 1.36
12 pitch – 1.42

Roof Pitch Expressed in Degrees:

roof pitch expressed in degrees

12 pitch = 45 degrees
11 pitch = 42.5 degrees
10 pitch = 40 degrees
9 pitch = 37 degrees
8 pitch = 33.75 degrees
7 pitch = 30.5 degrees
6 pitch = 26.5 degrees
5 pitch = 22.5 degrees
4 pitch = 18.5 degrees
3 pitch = 14 degrees
2 pitch = 9.5 degrees
1 pitch = 4.5 degrees
0 pitch = 0 degrees

How Roof Pitch Manifests Itself in Various Roof Types

Roof Types Diagram

Roof shapes have evolved through history in different regions of the world from flat to steeply pitched. Here are some of the common shapes that top roofs today:

Flat roofs are common with industrial buildings boasting wide roof spans and are also popular in dry climates for houses where there is no need for the roof to help disperse rain and snow. Even in these arid regions so-called “flat roofs” are still installed with a slight pitch to keep water from pooling on top of the structure.

A mono-pitched roof runs from a taller wall to a wall of lesser height to produce a slope. This is often a configuration seen on simple shed buildings.

Saw-tooth roofs can often be seen on old-school factories that were constructed with a series of mono-pitched roofs that are used to allow sunlight to filter down to the shop floor.

Pent roof is a collection of low mono-pitched roofs often seen on residential terraces.

A gable roof is a traditional triangle-shaped roof that can range from a medium pitch to sharp angled roofs.

A-frame roof is the sharpest gable-style roof resembling the shape of the letter-A. It is a traditional roof shape employed everywhere from tropical huts to Nordic ski chalets.

Asian-style roofs: The influences of Asian architecture have infiltrated American shores in recent years. Gracefully sloping roofs are often of medium pitch which emphasize the horizontal spread of the buildings.

Hipped roofs: These distinctive roofs with overhanging eaves feature four medium pitched sides and are characteristic of Dutch architecture and help disperse snow loads in northern climates. Hipped roofs are often used in complex roof formations with the “hips” facing different directions.

Saltbox roofs: The workhorse of Colonial America, the familiar saltbox is a building that features a long, pitched roof on one side, similar to the lid on a salt storage box. Their attractiveness traces to the desire to make a two-story building function as a one-story building to reduce the tax bill. The large expanse of such a roof will cause greater expense to cover.

A mansard roof, in opposition to a salt box, offers the utility of a full half-room on the upper floor rather than an attic. It features two pitches, one a shallow pitch atop a steeper slope.

Pyramidal roofs: Sometimes seen on square buildings, a tented or pyramidal roof, feature four slopes rising to a peak. These are often steeply pitched roofs.

Gambrel roofs: Popular with barns and other structures that create additional interior room, these stepped roofs feature a short steep, non-walkable slope before rising more gently to a ridge peak.

Clerestory roofs: Another popular form for factories requiring light infiltration, the clerestory features long, low-pitched roofs before the building rises to a traditional gabled section atop the structure.

Conical roofs: A staple of Queen Anne Victorian architecture these conical towers were topped with dunce-cap roofs that are too steep to be walked on.

Arched roofs: Seen on utility structures there are several types of medium-pitched roofs that feature curves from gentle arches to bows and barrels.

Circular roofs: These full arched roofs can be anything from domes to decorative Byzantine-inspired onion domes. Domed roofs can be low-pitched or fully circular.

Pros and cons of various roof slopes

Low pitch roofs are easier to install and safer to walk around to complete repairs and maintenance. This is fortunate since flat roofs are somewhat more prone to leaks and require frequent inspections.

Low-pitch roofs are seldom used in regions of severe weather due to the stress of snow accumulation on roofs of structures.

Flat roofs can be significantly cheaper to install than a pitched roof, but they will often require more maintenance. Flat roofs are popular in regions of sparse rainfall and are favored by modern architects in contemporary designs.

Medium-pitched roofs come in a variety of styles and provide help with dispersing snow and rainfall while still being able to be inspected and repaired by the average homeowner by walking around the surface.

High-pitch, non-walkable roofs are dynamic and present an exciting appearance, but they are more expensive to install, and repairs will be left to roofing contractors with all the necessary safety equipment.


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