Is your roof ready to handle all that heavy snow, and more importantly, the pesky, unsightly ice dams that can damage your roof and put a major whole in your pocket! 😉
if the roof over your home has experienced ice dams or snow related damage during the last major snowstorm, then it’s a ripe time to take action and rid your home of ice dams, once and for all!
This No-Nonsense Ice Dam Prevention Guide will help you understand how the ice dams form and how to stop them in their tracks. 😉
Ice dams can often form on a roof after a heavy snowstorm followed by the onset of low temperatures.
Ice dams form when snow at a peak of the roof begins to melt (usually due to warm air rising up in the attic and warming up the top of the roof), which causes all the melted water run down the slope of the roof until it refreezes, as it reaches the colder surfaces at the eaves (the edges, or overhangs) of the roof.
Ice dams can cause some very costly water damage to your roof deck, attic space, insulation, interior walls, and ceilings.
When an ice dam forms at the eave of your roof, it literally blocks off melted water from running down and causes it to rise up underneath the roof shingles thereby penetrating inside your home.
Melted water will generally rise up faster on the roofs with lower roof slope.
The damage caused by ice dam built up can be very costly. You may have to replace any wet insulation, damaged dry walls and ceilings, remove mold, and replace rotten wood in your home. It is obviously, much easier, and far less costly to stop ice dams before they happen!
How do ice dams form?
Before you can prevent ice dams from forming on your roof, you need to understand the mechanism behind the ice dam formation. During winter, your roof gets covered with snow, which is pretty normal. Ideally, this snow would eventually evaporate in the sun, as often happens in the case of roofs on abandoned homes and empty buildings.
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Whenever there is heavy snow accumulated on the roof, there is always a risk of ice dams forming following the onset of cold temperatures. This process normally works the following way:
- Warm air from inside the house rises up and makes its way inside the attic through a poorly-insulated and inadequately sealed attic floor space.
- Once in the attic, the warm air will continue rising up until it reaches the underside of the peak of the roof.
- As a result, the surface around the roof’s apex then begins to warm up, which causes the melting of the snow at the peak the roof. Consequently, the melted water runs down the surface of the roof underneath the snow-pack.
- When the melted water reaches the lower and colder area of the roof (typically at the eaves or edges of the roof), it refreezes forming a wall of ice.
This wall of ice is called an ice dam. The ice dam traps melted water, and eventually, it causes the melted water to rise up underneath the shingles, which allows it to get inside your house and cause extensive water damage to your property.
The damage from ice dams may not be immediately apparent, as water gets absorbed by insulation in your attic space, insulation in between the wall cavities, and finally, dry walls, plaster and ceilings.
Potential Damages to Keep in Mind
The insulation that has been exposed to water gets wet and can no longer insulate your home properly. Any wet insulation needs to be replaced. The damages to dry walls, and any resulting rotten wood will also require replacing.
If you do not take prompt measures, then mold growth can occur behind the scenes, without you even knowing about it.
How to Stop Ice Dams?
Because it is the warm air that makes its way into the attic space and causes the snow on top of the roof to melt, we need to find a way to insulate the attic space and keep it cool in order to stop ice dams from forming.
The goal is to have a cool attic space with the temperature at or below 30° F.
There are two ways to keep your attic space cool; insulation, and ventilation. You will find that most older homes do not have sufficient levels of insulation. Many older homes do not have an adequate ventilation, either.
Attic insulation requirements
For most homes located within a snow belt zone, a minimum attic insulation level equivalent of R – 49 is required in order to provide sufficient level of installation for your home.
Most homes built before the 1980s will not have sufficient levels of attic insulation, nor will they have sufficient levels of wall insulation for that matter.
Maintaining sufficient levels of insulation in your home is not only helpful for the ice dam prevention, but it is also great for attaining higher level of energy efficiency in your home.
By properly insulating your home you will decrease your heating and cooling costs, which in turn will lower your home’s carbon footprint and help you save money off your utility bill.
Before you head out to buy more insulation for your attic, you will need to find out the existing / present R – value level of insulation in your attic. You will then need to measure the surface area of your attic so that you can estimate the additional level of installation required for your attic.
How to measure your attic insulation level
You can measure the thickness of your attic floor insulation with a simple ruler. For example, If you find that you have 8 inches of existing fiberglass blanket insulation covering your attic floor, then multiply it by 3.14 to derive its are value.
By multiplying 8 inches of fiberglass blankets times 3.14, we get approximately R – 25 value. It means that will will have to add another 7 to 8 inches of insulation to bring in up to the required R – 49 insulation value.
Sealing off air leaks in the Attic
Aside from additional insulation, you will want to identify and seal off any holes, air leaks and drafts in the attic. Once you find the air leaks, you can seal them off with caulk, spray foam, or weather stripping.
Beefing up your inadequate attic insulation
When adding any necessary extra insulation to your attic floor, you will want to make sure stay away from the the outer edges / walls of the roof because you could inadvertently cover soffit vents locates at the eaves of the roof. The soffit vents serve the function of pulling the cold a air inside your attic.
Therefore, you will always want to keep your soffit vents unobstructed and uncovered. Another reason why you want to keep the insulation blankets away from the edges and interior walls of the roof in your attic, is because it actually helps to keep them warmer, which helps prevent ice dams from forming on the eaves of the roof.
Not covering the very edges of the interior roof walls will also help prevent moisture from getting trapped and thereby causing condensation to form inside the attic. We do not want any of that!
If your home has the so called soffit vents (small openings underneath the overhangs of the roof) that help bring the cold air inside the attic, and the ridge vent that circulates warmer air out of the attic, then you are in good shape.
If your attic does not have soffit vents, that it is likely that there are gable vents, the window like openings on both sides of the gable walls of the attic.
It may be necessary to expand the size of the gable vents in order to provide sufficient levels of attic insulation. As a rule of thumb, there should be at least one square foot of ventilation in the attic for every 150 square feet of the attic floor space.
You will find that most older homes do not have that, and it may thus be necessary for you to bring up the level of attic ventilation to sufficient level. Expanding the size of the gable vents may be an easy way to do it.
How Do I keep my Attic Space Cool, if I have a heating furnace installed in the attic?
If you have some sort of a heating unit or a gas furnace producing the heat in your attic, then you you will need to install power vents to rid your attic of warm air produced by heating unit. It will also be necessary to properly insulate the heating unit to reduce the amount of heat it passes into the attic space.
If you choose to install a power ventilation to cool off your attic, you will also need to make sure that there is a sufficient intake of cold air from the outside.
You could have a power exhaust vent installed on one side of the gable wall in your attic, while having an equally sized intake gable vent on the opposite side of the attic gable wall.
Other options for dealing with the Ice Dams
Ice Melting Cables
There are some special ice-melt cables you can install on top of the shingles at the eaves of your roof. Needless to say, these special ice-melting cables will have to be properly grounded and turned on manually after a heavy snowfall. You will have to remember to turn them off once the snow clears, or they will burn out.
There are also self-regulating heat cables designed to prevent ice dams and freezing of the gutters available from WarmZone.com. These systems are installed by certified professionals and will likely cost a few thousands dollars to design and install on your roof.
Ice melting cables are not the only available ice dam prevention products. For a full list of currently available ice dam prevention products check out this article.
You can also use the snow rakes to help you get rid of the snow at the eaves of your roof after a snowstorm. Be very careful if you have to use a ladder to reach the roof. You will want to make sure that your ladder is properly placed and secured before climbing it.
Modern metal shingles and standing seam metal roofs have special coatings that shed snow off the roof before it even has a chance to accumulate. — That’s one of the reasons why there are so many metal roofs installed in the “snow country” — New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont, because metal roofing can be a great way to virtually eliminate ice dams from forming on your roof in the first place! Be extra careful if you want to use snow rakes to remove any snow from your metal roof. There is a high chance of scratching and damaging the paint finish on your metal roof.
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